Lets see if we can start a thread about boats

[gn7]

why the hell is that engine sitting up so high and at such an angle if that is the case?
.

Put this under a FE or B/RB and you'll know why.
Consider the distance from the centerline of the crank to the bottom of this pan. Remember, the pan rail on a Chevy is the centerline of the crank. On a B/RB the pan rail about 3" below. So with the same pan depth, the B/RB is going to have about an additional 3" you have to deal with if you use a pan that deep. Its a nice pan and the bottom is slanted to account for the tilt of the engine in a V drive, but damn its deep.

[ogshotgun]

Put this under a FE or B/RB and you'll know why.
Consider the distance from the centerline of the crank to the bottom of this pan. Remember, the pan rail on a Chevy is the centerline of the crank. On a B/RB the pan rail about 3" below. So with the same pan depth, the B/RB is going to have about an additional 3" you have to deal with if you use a pan that deep. Its a nice pan and the bottom is slanted to account for the tilt of the engine in a V drive, but damn its deep.

i understand what your saying but tho pan is the same depth as the factory center sump its replacing only difference is its full length and ...

[ogshotgun]

You do realize that in the 70s most of the west coast boats had double axle trailers? Midwest boats kept single axle trailers for a lot longer. And you can get heavy steel double fenders just like you can singles.

So how long have you owned this boat? And who set it up the way it was in the pictures? Since you want to talk boats, let talk boats. What angle is your driveshaft at? What couplers do you use to connect the driveshaft to the V-drive? You said you have a 10 degree box, what strut angle does it have and why the hell is that engine sitting up so high and at such an angle if that is the case?

Also you said you aren't young and you posted a pic of an older guy driving the boat, is that you? If so, what is with the ARNG PFC crap in your signature line? I sure don't think they have many older PFCs in the Guard and the guy driving your boat isn't a PFC for sure.

I know, you figured all the boat guys were done for the night so you jump in and start posting like crazy. How about some answers while you're at it.

well i am retired and joined the guard at a late age and yes thats my current rank e-3 which is better than e-0 lol and no thats not me in the boat a friend, as far as the setup its factory from Wreidt boats , the boat has the original stringers in it and the bolt holes are exactly the same no extra sets ,now if you take the headers off and the 10" tall air cleaners and the 10*71 blower it sits pretty low,, as far as the coupling on the driveshaft it has a casale adapter on the crank for a 1350 u joint and a casale adapter on the vdivd input for a 1350 u joint .. the strut is 10 degrees and a correction it has a 12 degree casale drive with 29 gears, i do not know the crankshaft angle at this time but the edelbrock motor plates are offset and both almost sit at the bottom of the stringer

[ogshotgun]

well i am retired and joined the guard at a late age and yes thats my current rank e-3 which is better than e-0 lol and no thats not me in the boat a friend, as far as the setup its factory from Wreidt boats , the boat has the original stringers in it and the bolt holes are exactly the same no extra sets ,now if you take the headers off and the 10" tall air cleaners and the 10*71 blower it sits pretty low,, as far as the coupling on the driveshaft it has a casale adapter on the crank for a 1350 u joint and a casale adapter on the vdivd input for a 1350 u joint .. the strut is 10 degrees and a correction it has a 12 degree casale drive with 29 gears, i do not know the crankshaft angle at this time but the edelbrock motor plates are offset and both almost sit at the bottom of the stringer

also this boat did not have the option for a tandem axle trailer i have the original option sheet , and i usually don't have a helper so its much easier moving a single axle alone than a tandem

[ogshotgun]

Put this under a FE or B/RB and you'll know why.
Consider the distance from the centerline of the crank to the bottom of this pan. Remember, the pan rail on a Chevy is the centerline of the crank. On a B/RB the pan rail about 3" below. So with the same pan depth, the B/RB is going to have about an additional 3" you have to deal with if you use a pan that deep. Its a nice pan and the bottom is slanted to account for the tilt of the engine in a V drive, but damn its deep.

if you run a pan lets say for a chevy 7" deep take away the 3" block thats a 4" sump about 2-3 quarts of oil, no good

[ogshotgun]

Put this under a FE or B/RB and you'll know why.
Consider the distance from the centerline of the crank to the bottom of this pan. Remember, the pan rail on a Chevy is the centerline of the crank. On a B/RB the pan rail about 3" below. So with the same pan depth, the B/RB is going to have about an additional 3" you have to deal with if you use a pan that deep. Its a nice pan and the bottom is slanted to account for the tilt of the engine in a V drive, but damn its deep.

this pan is 6" to 7" the factory pan is 6" deep center sump only so .. also this s a 521" motor

[SnoC653]

Put this under a FE or B/RB and you'll know why.
Consider the distance from the centerline of the crank to the bottom of this pan. Remember, the pan rail on a Chevy is the centerline of the crank. On a B/RB the pan rail about 3" below. So with the same pan depth, the B/RB is going to have about an additional 3" you have to deal with if you use a pan that deep. Its a nice pan and the bottom is slanted to account for the tilt of the engine in a V drive, but damn its deep.

I understand the limitations of a deep pan under a RB block. But lets ponder what he has said already. If he has a 10* drive and a 7* strut, that puts the engine at 3* angle. Does his engine really look like it's at a 3* rise? I know how tight it would be to fit that pan under the 456 B block in the B boat with those angles. I'm thinking dry sump if I go that route just to get the block to fit.

[ogshotgun]

if you run a pan lets say for a chevy 7" deep take away the 3" block thats a 4" sump about 2-3 quarts of oil, no good

also pan is almost on the floor of the boat just like the factory pan without moving anything ...

[MrDenton]

So that was Stu's shop in the picture. Glad to see he's still working on boats.

He's still plugging away. Has more work than he has room for.
Here he is doing what he does.


Blown Gas Flats to Rope...
In loving memory of
Chris "Church Mouse" Blevens

[SnoC653]

well i am retired and joined the guard at a late age and yes thats my current rank e-3 which is better than e-0 lol and no thats not me in the boat a friend, as far as the setup its factory from Wreidt boats , the boat has the original stringers in it and the bolt holes are exactly the same no extra sets ,now if you take the headers off and the 10" tall air cleaners and the 10*71 blower it sits pretty low,, as far as the coupling on the driveshaft it has a casale adapter on the crank for a 1350 u joint and a casale adapter on the vdivd input for a 1350 u joint .. the strut is 10 degrees and a correction it has a 12 degree casale drive with 29 gears, i do not know the crankshaft angle at this time but the edelbrock motor plates are offset and both almost sit at the bottom of the stringer

That engine is still way up there. However, you should be more concerned about the 10* strut angle. If you want to use all the HP you said your engine makes, you need to do a serious upgrade to the driveline of your boat. You are planning to put close to 1000HP into a 80 or 90 MPH hull set up to be a 70 MPH hull at best. Now is when a conversation about boat building and rigging should start. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here that can help you set that thing up right. Since you have the floors out, now would be a good time to consider it.