1966 Howard Walnut deck V drive.

[topolino2]

Thanks, I will get some photos out of the drive. The previous owner is sending me all his documentation. He ordered the boat and was the only owner. He stated that he did not want any unnecessary hardware and that included the Howard script. He would never let anyone on the deck and did all the fittings himself. The workmanship in the installation is top shelf but weathered. It came from middle California and never saw salt. Seats are good patterns at best and the ply appears to be usable. Howard trailer is rust free but the 6 lug wheels have to go.
Don't want to rush it and need to know about things like sealing the prop shaft and rudder. Don't want my first voyage to be Titanic.

[2manymustangs]

Thanks, I will get some photos out of the drive. The previous owner is sending me all his documentation. He ordered the boat and was the only owner. He stated that he did not want any unnecessary hardware and that included the Howard script. He would never let anyone on the deck and did all the fittings himself. The workmanship in the installation is top shelf but weathered. It came from middle California and never saw salt. Seats are good patterns at best and the ply appears to be usable. Howard trailer is rust free but the 6 lug wheels have to go.
Don't want to rush it and need to know about things like sealing the prop shaft and rudder. Don't want my first voyage to be Titanic.

Prop shaft seal should be a easy deal, we have several good resources here for dripless couplings & tech... Let me see if I can summons one for you to ask questions, in the mean time it would be good to see some pics of the existing coupling and the strut from the bottom side of the hull too (in addition to the drive).

[topolino2]

Here are some shots of the Howard after getting the upholstery out of the boat. My assumption is the .060 over 327 is probably going to need a new block. 327's are not easy to find but 350's are a dime a dozen.
This engine has Corvette heads so they may need to rebuilt and saved. Thoughts?
I'm told the V drive is set up at 9 degrees. When I uncouple the drive and rotate the shaft the strut screams lube! Plan on taking the shaft out and check for bent shaft and inspect the bushings in the strut.
Here is my problem. I did not put it together and need to know what first steps to break everything free.
Do I break the shaft coupling and mounting for the V drive and pull it forward to expose the drive shaft flanges or is the drive shaft splined to the engine an pull the engine rearward?
Wiring
The wiring appears to be either eaten by mice and got hot. Seems a bit unlikely that mice could eat the copper so I am assuming that something went wrong at some time. Additionally, the wires used were automotive grade and not marine and do not follow the color coding spec for marine use. My plan is to rewire the complete system. I have not been under the dash to see if there are proper fuses to protect the system. Any thoughts?
Fiberglass
Here are some shots of the delamination. I inspected the underside and found wood supports for the top to hull and they appear to be in good shape. I think we have vibration and pounding that has caused the fiberglass at the surface to break free in areas. I have 4 oz. fiberglass woven sheet on the way. I like the very lightweight as multiple layers can be applied with minimal thickness increases. Plan on Epoxy as the resin system over Polyester. Once again. your thoughts?
So here we are. Plan a new engine, seal off the prop shaft and rudder, rewire the boat and repair all the delamination in the hull. Any comments, suggestions and technical advise is appreciated.
Chuck Poe

[2manymustangs]

WOW, she looks VERY intact/original... I would get her on the water first thing and see how you like her before you rip her all apart for resto/repairs... Maybe back it into the water somewhere close after you get it running to ensure the shaft seal is decent enough for a few outings...

ALSO, a new impeller on the water pump is a must...

WANNABE / FC Pilot & the Millers (on here) could probably spec out a really sweet SBC for you that wouldn't break the bank IF the 327 can't be salvaged... They have a cool new small block project that just hit the water... >>>> http://www.wannaberacing.com/sk51.html

[topolino2]

Greetings all,
Well, I removed the 327 engine from the boat after talking to the original owner and he informed me that the engine was experiencing blow back so the engine was due for work. After sitting 33 years I was amazed that it was not stuck. Being .060 over I thought I might just need to replace the short block with a 350 small block.
This is where I could use some help. I've been researching marine engines verses car engines, Dart short blocks and have some mechanics that want to open up the 327 and install oversize rings, check the bearings and rebuild the Corvette heads.
US Marine offers a 1995 Chevy 350 long block with a 7 year guarantee for $2,600. A Dart 350 is around the same in short block. Rebuilding the 327 with oversize rings, new bearings and head work is around $1,500.
Since these boats are delivering speed at higher rpms than cars going similar speeds, I thought that the marine application may be a better choice with the specific cams, valve springs and balancing that work better at sustained high rpms.
What do you think? Want to build the boat with the most reliable potential. Once I get it back in, I really don't want to take it out for a long time.

[2manymustangs]

A boat engine is loaded all the time, like a tow rig pulling a trailer (fully loaded) up hill always... Which is unlike a car application...

The Miller guys should be able to coach you on this SBC and the potential for issues with a .060 over vintage block...

You may want to give some idea of your budget for the mill...

[2manymustangs]

Thanks, I will get some photos out of the drive. The previous owner is sending me all his documentation. He ordered the boat and was the only owner. He stated that he did not want any unnecessary hardware and that included the Howard script. He would never let anyone on the deck and did all the fittings himself. The workmanship in the installation is top shelf but weathered. It came from middle California and never saw salt. Seats are good patterns at best and the ply appears to be usable. Howard trailer is rust free but the 6 lug wheels have to go.
Don't want to rush it and need to know about things like sealing the prop shaft and rudder. Don't want my first voyage to be Titanic.

Hey, check this thread http://www.hotboat.com/frm/showthread.php?t=7381 you can find a contact and info about shaft seal in that thread

[topolino2]

Thought I would let you know the current status of the 1966 Howard.
Pulled the 327 and purchased a built 350. Comp cams provided the marine cam and associated hardware. Various bits from local and Ebay sources. Painted Torch red. The engine has Dart Iron eagle heads
and was a fresh rebuild but the last owner either had too large a carburetor or wrong cam as it would not idle. Pulled it and went big block so it ended up in my hands. I pulled it down to the short block and saw nothing that would
give me concern.
The boat is coming along well. I routed out the cracks and have used 2.5 oz. fiberglass in the layups. I like the thin glass as I can put several layers up and still be under the thickness of a single layer of 6oz.
Now going through sanding and getting ready to finish the wood deck.
I did remove the single coat of fiberglass cloth from the deck as there were areas of delamination of the veneer that had to be addressed. If you have never done this, I would encourage you do whatever to avoid this step. I used heat guns, lifting scrapers and surgical knives to get it off. A job I am glad to say is off my bucket list. Got it done but wonder if it was worth the trouble to avoid seeing unsaturated glass cloth from 50 years ago. After all, was that not original?
Will be posting photos of the boat shortly.

[topolino2]

Here are a couple of shots of the Howard getting the deck sprayed in Orange. Thought that the Orange with the dark Walnut would be a nice combination. Besides, having an Orange boat in Tennessee is not a bad idea.
The deck cracks were a real pain to get right and it has taken more hours than I care to think about. I would, however, if I ever take on a similar project would use Polyester for this edge repair over Epoxy. The Epoxy will be fine to
do the wood deck but it does not like sanding like polyester.
This photos are of the first pass in base coat. Once down, I wet sanded it in 220 grit to make sure everything is flat and ready for clear. Tomorrow we go back to a couple more coats of Orange then three coats of clear.
With that complete, we then go onto the wood deck for staining and epoxy and varnish. So far, it's going well but probably won't see water till next year.

[Sanger_Spectra]

I love that Orange! will look great with the wood deck.