1966 Howard Walnut deck V drive.

[topolino2]

Update:
was going for the last coat of epoxy before the varnish. Plant was cold so after I applied the coating, I decided to warm up the area and lit up a Kerosene salamander. As soon as the air started the warm the entire Epoxy coating started to fish eye.
Found out later that these heaters are pretty dirty and put out oil which the epoxy does not like. Having to sand it back then get it really clean before attempting it again.

[HB Vic]

That sucks. But I have heard kerosene heaters do spit out oil. Bummer tho.

[Mrs.K034]

Man, that sucks.


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[Dryhoze1]

That’s a bummer for sure.
Be real careful with any temperature changes before or after application of epoxy. Turning on heat or pulling the boat out into the sun before or after application will always cause headaches. Apply at a nice comfortable temperature then leave to dry naturally.
Are you set on using the varnish after the epoxy ? If it was me I’d sand back your last coat of epoxy to 600 or so and shoot it with a nice automotive clear. Clears nowadays are awesome & have some great uv protection built in.I can give you some reference to some proven products that I’ve come to like with great results.

Keep at it !!
All the best,
Brian

[Sanger_Spectra]

I would agree with Brian on the clear, this boat was not done with epoxy but old school polyester resin, boat was finished around 2000' if not earlier and still looks beautiful. Clear was PPG Concept 2021 on this one but the price on that product has just gotten stupid, I used Southern Polyurethanes inc on my Spectra and was very happy with the clear.

[Cofooter]

That’s a bummer for sure.
Be real careful with any temperature changes before or after application of epoxy. Turning on heat or pulling the boat out into the sun before or after application will always cause headaches. Apply at a nice comfortable temperature then leave to dry naturally.
Are you set on using the varnish after the epoxy ? If it was me I’d sand back your last coat of epoxy to 600 or so and shoot it with a nice automotive clear. Clears nowadays are awesome & have some great uv protection built in.I can give you some reference to some proven products that I’ve come to like with great results.

Keep at it !!
All the best,
Brian

Please provide some references if you could for a project I am doing with epoxy, for not only clear over epoxy coated floors, but also a recommended "system" for primer/base/clear for the hull that can be made to look good by an amateur, haha. Thanks!!!!!

[Cofooter]

You guys got some beautiful flatties!!!!

[Dryhoze1]

Please provide some references if you could for a project I am doing with epoxy, for not only clear over epoxy coated floors, but also a recommended "system" for primer/base/clear for the hull that can be made to look good by an amateur, haha. Thanks!!!!!

Hi Cofoot

Others will know better than me, but here are the products I use and like.
Pm if any questions!

Duratec products (go to Hawkeye industries to reference these )

And to me the best clear SPI

For paint just a good catalyze urethane. SPI sells some nice paints as well
Good luck

[Cofooter]

Thank you, Dryhoze, I will check these out!!!!

[2manymustangs]

Agreed on the URETHANE clear on top of the epoxy OR flow coat polyester resin... That is the normal practice for UV protection... I have consulted with the wizards on this topic numerous times for wood deck conversions/floors/all wood boats/etc...

Any quality Urethane clear will do... I personally use the PPG line, they do have a value (economy line) that I have had good luck with. My last paint job on my 5.0 fox body was cleared with the value line from PPG and it looks amazing after quite a few years of full sun/weather/winter and no special wax/treatment...

As for the oil mist from the salamander heater, I never did hear of this happening before BUT it makes perfect sense, its basically a huge paint gun misting out atomized oil....... Sorry you had to find that out the hard way... :(