V-drives

[gn7]

I'm sure 7 can give us a very detailed history of prop releases.

don't drag me into these 3 threads. Its like answering "what's the meaning of life, and what do women what"
Who knows, and who has the time to answer it if they did.
I think if Jerry has a copy of the 1958 Hot Rod Magazine with the article about the first drags at Marine Stadium he will see a paragraph about "one thing being certain about v drive boats, that nobody is certain about anything"

"The More I know learn about engines, the more I realize how little I know" Keith Black

Jerry, whirlaways have been around almost as long as I can remember. Every thing I know about them can be summed up with just this, If you don't have a trans, and no reverse, then use one. That philosophy has never let me down yet.
I believe, but could be wrong, that the Algon is more of drag race release. I don't know too many circle racers that use of like them, because they lack any resistance to release. Zero. Back off the gas, and the prop is freewheeling. Install one in a circle boat, and you notice the different on your first ride. You sure as hell will notice it going into you first turn at the buoy.
Casale made a similar deal and it was not well received. Partially due to the price, and partially due to the "feel." But it was infinitely stronger than the Algon.

There is nothing secret about a v-drive. They come in two general angles, the 12 degree and the 10 degree. There are a few 8 degrees and one or two sevens that I know of. But forget about those.
Lots of race boats prefer 10 degrees for this. 12 degrees are common in family boats and ski type boats. The engine sits higher in the hull (typically). You can use solid shafts from the engine or u-joints. With u-joints you can alter the alignment of the engine slightly. Solid mounts have to be pretty true or they will bind and wear stupid. .

Paul, you missed one "angle". The original parallel shaft box.
I 100% agree that the box angles got shallower thru the years to allow the engine to set lower, while allowing the shaft angle to get shallower. But you can't get any less angle than "0", and nobody even thinks of using one today.
There are also cases where a 10* is less than the perfect box, as in the situation with OG's Mopar flatty. The engine is sitting a mile high due to the engine design and the pan choice. Put a 10* box in that boat, and its almost be like using a parallel box and a SBC. You'll never get near ideal shaft angle, and forget a solid shaft.

I will only add that too many people seem to be of the belief that box angle and shaft angle are somehow tightly linked. Its two totally independent angles that ultimately determine the engine placement/angle/height. Yes, as the prop shaft angle gets shallower, the box angle CAN get shallower as well, but only if it doesn't require cutting a hole in the bottom of the boat to get the drive line angle correct.