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Senior Member
We looked at it pretty good. I don't think it's the original cam just a new grid of the original cam.
edit: You can identify a genuine Crane cam core by the distinctive copper plating between the lobes.
Last edited by 78Southwind; 12-24-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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 Originally Posted by 78Southwind
We looked at it pretty good. I don't think it's the original cam just a new grid of the original cam.
Is it a solid or hydraulic roller?
I run a hydraulic roller crane PN 139651. The number on yours is close.
Last edited by WESTERNAERO; 12-17-2013 at 11:59 PM.
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Senior Member
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
Is it a solid or hydraulic roller?
I run a hydraulic roller crane PN 139651. The number on yours is close.
It's a solid roller.
Last edited by 78Southwind; 01-30-2014 at 05:23 PM.
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I wouldn't be worried about the collar. The diameter of the collar isn't large enough to have any rotating mass that would cause vibrations or anything to loosen the bolts if torqued properly and locktite is used. There's no end thrust applied to move the collar forward so that's not an issue either. If your really worried about it coming apart, assemble it, tighten the collar in place and then remove the drive and tack the two pieces of the collar together. I'm not a fan of doing something like that but it would give you the peace of mind you looking for.
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Do you really need the collar? You're going to shorten the splined end of the shaft, why shorten per the instructions? The PTO coupler is splined thru, so why not machine the that end so it has 1/8 - 3/16 off the end of the crank? If you chunk it up in a lathe so the face is square to the splines then there is no need for the collar. The collar is there so the shaft doesn't move too far forward and comes out of the trans. If you set the end-play to the crank, the collar is useless.
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Senior Member
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
Do you really need the collar? You're going to shorten the splined end of the shaft, why shorten per the instructions? The PTO coupler is splined thru, so why not machine the that end so it has 1/8 - 3/16 off the end of the crank? If you chunk it up in a lathe so the face is square to the splines then there is no need for the collar. The collar is there so the shaft doesn't move too far forward and comes out of the trans. If you set the end-play to the crank, the collar is useless.
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
I wouldn't be worried about the collar. The diameter of the collar isn't large enough to have any rotating mass that would cause vibrations or anything to loosen the bolts if torqued properly and locktite is used. There's no end thrust applied to move the collar forward so that's not an issue either. If your really worried about it coming apart, assemble it, tighten the collar in place and then remove the drive and tack the two pieces of the collar together. I'm not a fan of doing something like that but it would give you the peace of mind you looking for.
Thanks...I will think this through.
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 Originally Posted by 78Southwind
Thanks...I will think this through.
I think the TCI's idea with the collar is if some guy is doing this in his garage and the only thing he has is a chop saw to cut the shaft to length. The cut won't be square, but by putting that split collar on there it will provide a perpendicular shoulder for the end play. The PTO becomes part of the crank when it's bolted on. So what's the difference if the end play is set from the PTO face or inside the PTO on the crank. Hope I'm making sense here.
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