Quote Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO View Post
Yeah I get it. But when you're talking about a 3-d surface like these props have, I feel the best way to make them is with CNC machines. Both sides come out equal. Now is it as critical with a 3, 4 or 5 blade? Hell no, they'll have an easier time balance themselves out. And as far as being able to tweek or rework a prop on a CNC, absolutely! And if the programmer is really good it can be done in a fraction of the time than doing it by hand. You can twist and tweek surface profiles anywhere you want on a CAD.
Exactly. No hand shaped prop has two identical ears. let alone identical to another prop. Even as good as CNC is, it is still no guarantee. Tom Black of Precision learned long ago that just the smallest difference in batch material, and HEAT TREAT!! made a huge difference.
We have reworked 2 Hill 17-4 SS props to 99% of our original Hill prop that finally developed crack after have been in service as both a GN and K prop and a few championships under 3 different boats starting in 1988. We had the "twin" to it for awhile that had its own history. Remarkably, both props gave up the ghost on the same weekend at Parker. The other rip the ear off at 100 plus, our revealed a crack after Sat races.

In all the testing and mods of a dozen props, we have finally come to the conclusion that for us to get the same speed and handling from a steel prop is going to require some more testing and or some changes to the boat itself. We just could never get to where we wanted to be with a steel prop. Close, but close only works for back up props, or use in the endure, or as a river/lake prop, which is exactly what they are used for right.

Its the one thing that makes me hesitant to pay to have the prop digitally mapped, and made. I don't see the SS shape working correctly in a 4330 prop