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  1. #11
    Prop shafts are not balanced like a drive shaft, but they are checked for straightness. If they are not straight they can be straightened. But not if they are bent too much. In that case you would just get a new prop shaft and check it for straightness
    Connolly Marine
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  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by GN107 View Post
    Prop shafts are not balanced like a drive shaft, but they are checked for straightness. If they are not straight they can be straightened. But not if they are bent too much. In that case you would just get a new prop shaft and check it for straightness
    TIR? Makes sense. But wouldn't balancing be beneficial?

  3. #13
    In order to balance something you have to either add weight or take away material. If you were to add material to the prop shaft you would never get it thru the bearings. If you were to grind away material you would make it weaker. I am by no way a consultant on balancing though. I don't think a prop shaft being only 1 to 1-1/8" in diameter and being made of a solid bar would be effected as much in balance as it would in being straight
    Connolly Marine
    High Performance Parts for your V-Drive or Jet Boat
    Order online @ www.ConnollyMarine.com
    Holley - MSD - Weiand - Berkeley - Casale - Mercruiser

  4. #14
    Already miss the 310/562 2manymustangs's Avatar
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    THe shafts are so small in diameter and so uniform in shape that the balance wouldnt be a factor so long as it is straight.

    STEVE-O was checking with someone on a new material for race shafts... Saltwater/rust would be a factor for the TUFF STUFF that is used in race car axles BUT on a race boat where the shaft is being yanked out and magnafluxed/inspected after every race or heat or weekend thats a non issue...

    I would dial up the boyz from Mark Williams, give them the print dimensions and they could build a shaft that would NEVER break, BET...

    Steve-O , GN7 and I were kicking this around a while back but Steve didn't report his findings yet

    I would pick a spline that the prop boyz like and spline the carbon steel shaft to match, and have a shaft that

    A) has to be pulled out and oiled/pickled and

    B) would NEVER break in in applications less than TF...

    Maybe an iridite finish or TiN finish (titanium nitride) so it has some corrosion resistance... Everyone would say "oooo, a gold plated prop shaft"...
    Last edited by 2manymustangs; 12-22-2014 at 07:15 PM.
    -In a Republic, the sovereignty resides with the people themselves. In a Republic, the government is a servant of the people, and obliged to its owner, We the People..

    "Remember, democracy never lasts long. It soon wastes, exhausts, and murders itself. There never was a democracy yet that did not commit suicide." John Adams

  5. #15
    The shaft is centerless ground, to be out of balance either the material would have to be not homogeneous or the taper machined out of concentricity to the body of the shaft. The keyways should be 180 to each other so they would offset each other. Not straight is not out of balance so if your shaft is somehow found to be out of balance I would throw it away as there is a serious issue. Your coupler is probably more of a balance issue if you have the garden variety coupler. I was surprised when I suggested splines on the shaft and prop on the other thread that I wasn't tarred and feathered, but I too would like to if anyone has pursued it.

  6. #16
    Already miss the 310/562 2manymustangs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sangerdan View Post
    The shaft is centerless ground, to be out of balance either the material would have to be not homogeneous or the taper machined out of concentricity to the body of the shaft. The keyways should be 180 to each other so they would offset each other. Not straight is not out of balance so if your shaft is somehow found to be out of balance I would throw it away as there is a serious issue. Your coupler is probably more of a balance issue if you have the garden variety coupler. I was surprised when I suggested splines on the shaft and prop on the other thread that I wasn't tarred and feathered, but I too would like to if anyone has pursued it.
    You may see someone tinkering with it soon on a heavy boat that is rough/tough enuff to bust up a shaft/strut/coupler... Thats all Im gonna say about that...
    -In a Republic, the sovereignty resides with the people themselves. In a Republic, the government is a servant of the people, and obliged to its owner, We the People..

    "Remember, democracy never lasts long. It soon wastes, exhausts, and murders itself. There never was a democracy yet that did not commit suicide." John Adams

  7. #17
    So I have a question. Why don't they spline the coupler, prop shaft, and v-drive box out put shaft. I had a master craft and they had a splined prop and and prop shaft. This seem like it would be stronger in most all aspects

  8. #18
    The easy answer is you really cant use a pinch type coupler and splines and get it to tighten. It cant squeeze because it would only pull where the pinch bolts are until it took up the clearance in the adjacent splines and not pull on the full circumference. There is so much we do on these boats that is stuck in very old technologies. Some work very well and some not so much. To spline the v-drive box end of the prop shaft would require a lot more redesigned parts and probably little to gain. If the work is PROPERLY done the current setup on the box end is fairly reliable.

  9. #19
    Senior Member sangermike's Avatar
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    I use one on my sanger mini and its great i just dump the water from the vdrive out the shaft log and don't have to worry about weed clogging the vdrive pick up and burning out the old style that required water to cool

  10. #20

    Gotta come over here more, just saw this. Thank you for the kind words on my parts!!!

    All our parts can be seen here.......... http://www.d21ent.com/Default.asp

    Thanks again, Phil
    D21's V-Drive Parts
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