Yeah I've had a few conversations with God while being held under ..... seconds seem like minutes. The more you go you will get a certain comfort level of being out there ... also you will become a better swimmer whether you want to or not
I understand what you mean.
It would be great if I became a better swimmer...maybe I can go a triathlon? Wow that would be awesome!
Thank you! I rode my first two waves today it was super fun. Totally worth all the salt water I swallowed. I just have to learn to put one foot in front of the other and more importantly CLOSE MY MOUTH. I live very close to Cardiff. But OCPhotographics and Stryderphoto come from OC so the place we meet at by the San Onofre boobs is the best spot that's in the middle.
Sent from my Bat Cave
You know a tad south of the Boobies is the nude beach.....ah, what am I saying, I'm sure you knew that
Surfing is still really my favorite thing. To stay in shape and still be able to ride a shortboard over shallow coral and/or in good waves here takes commitment and almost comes with a burden to me at this point because it's use it or lose it. Looks like perfect beginner waves down south in your pic that's for sure. I got some fun little waves this week too between work-
Surfing is still really my favorite thing. To stay in shape and still be able to ride a shortboard over shallow coral and/or in good waves here takes commitment and almost comes with a burden to me at this point because it's use it or lose it. Looks like perfect beginner waves down south in your pic that's for sure. I got some fun little waves this week too between work-
Last time they were long rollers and it was fun. Right now the tide is high...rough short bastards. All I did so far today is tumble and smack into my board. I'm taking a break. Need to regroup. Stair at the cut on my foot for a few minutes lol
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