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04-22-2014, 11:31 AM
#121
 Originally Posted by 78Southwind
Well he said he did and when I put my hand up inside the housing it was tight. I even tried to pull it forward to see if I could move it back in place by hand. Those pumps make about 250 lbs of pressure.
But that's 250 lbs of line pressure(fluid psi) not thrust. If the pump drove itself forward 1/4" the trans would be junk. That looks like an aluminum collar. It heated up, swelled, lost clamp pressure and the vibration from the engine allowed it to work loose.
Get on Mcmaster Carr, order a steel collar, reset your drive adapter spacing (about .050" i'm assuming), clamp the the steel collar on, remove the assembly, weld the collar and re-install. It should be good forever.
Last edited by WESTERNAERO; 04-22-2014 at 11:47 AM.
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04-22-2014, 12:05 PM
#122
Senior Member
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
If the pump drove itself forward 1/4" the trans would be junk. That looks like an aluminum collar. It heated up, swelled, lost clamp pressure and the vibration from the engine allowed it to work loose.
The pump drive went backwards towards the engine not forwards towards the trans. I am pretty much over this and I am going with the Hughes Performance Direct Drive. I hate doing this to my wallet but I hate workarounds.
Last edited by 78Southwind; 07-29-2014 at 04:11 PM.
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04-22-2014, 12:08 PM
#123
 Originally Posted by 78Southwind
The pump drive went backwards towards the engine not forwards towards the trans. I am pretty much over this and I am going with the Hughes Performance Direct Drive. I hate doing this to my wallet but I hate workarounds. I am just hoping I didn't screw the trans up.
I saw that it went towards the engine, I didn't think it went into the pump. A steel collar welded on can be done cheap and right away. Just trying to save you some money is all.
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04-22-2014, 12:26 PM
#124
Senior Member
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
I saw that it went towards the engine, I didn't think it went into the pump. A steel collar welded on can be done cheap and right away. Just trying to save you some money is all.
I hear ya Kevin it makes sense what you're saying and I appreciate the help. But I am looking into other problems that might come up as well. Some have said they have lost splines probably since they didn't use a spacer behind the flange. Other's (besides GN7) have said it could be an alignment problem with the flexplate. Scott is helping me and his time is what I am starting to get worried about (I don't want to take advantage of him and his time).
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04-22-2014, 12:34 PM
#125
I you lived closer I'd tell you to just bring here and I'm sure we could get it fixed up so you could take it to DS tomorrow.
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05-06-2014, 06:26 PM
#126
Senior Member
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05-06-2014, 06:56 PM
#127
Senior Member
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05-06-2014, 07:28 PM
#128
Jerry, I hate to tell you this because you've got it all together. But, your bolts holding the drive to the flex plate should have a few threads showing. They're not fully engaged into the nylok area of the nut.
It's good to have 3 threads showing on everything that gets thru bolted with a nut and always use washers on the nut end.
Last edited by WESTERNAERO; 05-06-2014 at 07:36 PM.
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05-06-2014, 07:54 PM
#129
So what kind of mph were you getting? Looks like it was running good.
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05-06-2014, 08:57 PM
#130
Senior Member
 Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO
So what kind of mph were you getting? Looks like it was running good.
Didn't GPS it. It was just a shake down run to get the bugs out. I think there is a slip in the transmission so I am going to test it again.
Last edited by 78Southwind; 05-06-2014 at 09:57 PM.
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