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Right now my boat has water injected headers, they are rusty and look like crap. I can get a set of free dry headers in good shape. Now i know it will be louder, but what else would change? My boat is not a race boat, i take it out and cruise all day. Are dry headers more towards racing? Also how hard would it be to switch from wet to dry?
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Guys i should of googled before i asked this. I answered my own questions. Im goin to keep running water, id like me and my passenger to be comfortable.
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Need water for driving all day. Dry for quick runs
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I run a Rex valve with water injected bassets. I run em wet when cruising, but dry at idle and hard passes. The difference in sound is noticeable, but more important than that is safety. Get your first "header tattoo" and you'll never want dry headers.
When you buy another set, do yourself a favor and take them to get ceramic coated. They won't rust or turn blue. Embee Performance in Santa Ana did mine and they came out great.
Ya i remember my dad getting burned a few times taking his baffles out. Is there any other makes besides basset and rewarder? 1k seems so high for headers!Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguyeddie
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Dry Headers tend to be a fire hazard not to mention a potential liabilty for serious burn injuries (been there) , Even wet headers have that risk , key to this issue IMO is to effectively control the water and if neccesary or desired be able to shut the water off (or cut it back) We rig alot of boats with drivers seat area mounted controls to for example shut the water off for a "pass"
That would be nice but i dont think necessary. Ill just pony up the 1k for a new set of bassets.Quote:
Originally Posted by jetboatperformance
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When doin a pass dry is it really a big difference compared to wet, as far as performance?Quote:
Originally Posted by 76Bonneville
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Agreed , we rig alot of boats and sell lots of headers, always recommend a positive shut off like in Rons picture prior to "t" valves , provides added protection in case of debris fouling as well as control. wet headers on;y need a small amount of water to work properly , and yes water introduced will create some back pressure and affect performance TomQuote:
Originally Posted by 76Bonneville
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMG_0227.jpg
I've run the Bassett-T since 1997 and only had an issue with it once when a speck of debris held the check-ball off it's seat. Since then I pre-filter the water into the engine block...AND...have a pre-filter before water enters the Bassett-T > > > ZERO issues since. :thumbup:
I suppose filtration is a way to insure water flow is debris free, don't run or rig with these but respect thier use and applications particularly given some environments and water conditions , regardless I recommend a manual shut off of header water prior do "T" valves for regulation adjustments and as a "failsafe" just always seems prudent ... Tom
Got a set of basset shorties for her, gonna run dry at first and see how it is. If its to hot they have water bungs on them.
Last time out the boat stalled twice im thinking its the t fitting getting stuck. I just have the t no valve. Also maybe a sticky float, tearing into it tomorrow.
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