Teague and Glenwood carry them. They are made by BJ marine. You need to know the barrel ID and the shaft ID.
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Teague and Glenwood carry them. They are made by BJ marine. You need to know the barrel ID and the shaft ID.
I'm liking you more all the time:biggrin:
When Dave Rankin drove Rudy's GN he would tell Rudy that the boat was turning 8700 on the straights. Rudy would say, we need to do something about that and taped the tach up with duct tape. When I ask Bill what its spinning, he tells me he has better things to do than look at a tach. So I bought a data recorder. I can't do anything about the RPM, but it lets me know how many fingers I need to keep crossed.
lol your a grumpy old a..hole aren't you lol 3-5 every race i just go off what people post on her grumpy. the enduro there was according to the post 5 props lost the parker race the post said at least three boats lost there props...so if you didn't see it , i guess it didn't happen , didn't know you personally kept track of every boat every prop every shaft at every race, no wonder your grumpy thats a shitty job to have lmao
What do you think is better for my app? The rubber kind I have now or the fiber style.
I don't see how anyone could look at a tach while bombing down the straight. I would'nt even be able to glance at one, bumps and stuff come way too quick. Only gauge I have is oil pressure and that only get's looked at during warmup and parade laps, I should probably hookup a big idiot light. I've thought about getting one of those RacePack deals, when setup right you can get a lot of usefull info afterwards.
you read and comprehend nothing, i never said you recommended glenwood you never recommend any one at all as a matter of fact, go read some of the other boating forums out there that you belong too and you can see where i got that from..after i found Marine Machine bought a shaft posted pictures of it .. than you like it .. now all of a sudden thats who you recommended lmao..you or kevin would not reccomened any supplier what so ever, the only thing thing that was recommend was a material type, and back to glenwood aren't you the one saying there shafts have run for years in your boats ? and Bob made yours personally while you watched? or is that just some more shit i made up ?
almost ready to give up on hot boat.com all grumpy people out to attack each other , could of stayed in the ARMY for that...
Only now when they lose one, it hurts a little more. They aren't as tough as some some like to make them out to be. The 44 boat has the ears tips off the ears off two so far. There is NOHING different about a Grose prop than a Radiance or Menkins except how the blade shaped. When you can explain how the you shape the blade increases the strength, you get back to me with that info. Its still 2 ears welded to a fucking hub and sent out for heat treat. How the CNC makes them stronger I would like to hear, Genius
Rankin and Darrin take them one step further when they get them from Grose, but I am not all that sold that it helps any.
Grose props don't have welded ears. They are from a forging. Maybe I'm missing something but that's straight from Joey and Ron grose's mouth. I spent a week down there with Scarlata and saw the box of forgings.
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i know and bob did not mention marine machine i was the first to comment on it, i know you didn't recommend anyone why would you you can make it yourself..and if you remember i researched the company and asked for your opinion. you said you would use them and that was good enough for me, what bob said is that a supplier has a batch of bad shafts , never who not a name out of his mouth till today, if giving him the credit for it makes him happy than he did all my research for me contacted them look at the certs and the type of machines and gave his word that , thats who to use than he did, just like with the Grose forged props he said there welded ears than there welded ears no matter what picture is posted..
:leghump:There is NOHING different about a Grose prop than a Radiance or Menkins except how the blade shaped. When you can explain how the you shape the blade increases the strength, you get back to me with that info. Its still 2 ears welded to a fucking hub and sent out for heat treat.
LMAO if he said there welded than there welded dam it ... lmao
So if the tip if the ears of the Grose props snap off, it proves the forging are better than welded ears? How it how the root at the hub helping the tip of the blade.
I have nothing against Grose props. I have no doubt it a great product. But the prop under my GN won 5 championships that I know of in the history I was able to track, and it was made in 1988 and final obtained a small crack in Nov 2012. That's not a bad run under a blown GN.
I paid 150.00 unseen off E bay, What does a Grose prop cost, and might fail after 2 weekends??
I don't care if its carved by hand with a hacksaw and file, if it only lasts 2 weekends, I try something else.
I the forging is a stronger root/hub, how does that help the rest of the blade. Are you suggesting the forging is stronger everywhere else over milled plate. Are does the ONLY thing it eliminates is the weld?
If it throws the whole blade or part of the blade, it is just as bad and could have exactly the same effect. Many conventionally manufactured props have gone years and years without throwing blades or parts of the blade, So to say something is stronger because it is perceived that it is impossible for it to throw the whole blade, is a bit pointless if there are reports of these props throwing parts of the blade.