Prop Shaft

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Originally Posted by gn7

I'm not one to turn my keel in a perforated "break on the dotted line"

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Damn that made me laugh...:happy:

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Originally Posted by gn7

Yeah, you'd move it. But if he already has 16 holes in the bottom of his boat, I would be tempted to leave it. I'm not one to turn my keel in a perforated "break on the dotted line"

But I would consider taking all but about an 1/8 of the raised should off the log and seal, get the log dead nuts, and shorten the hose to the minimum, and using T bolt hose clamps.

How much room do you have now with out changing anything?
Are you planning on running a collar in front of the strut too?

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sounds good i have t bolt clamps and a silicone hose by taking off 3/8" off the log and 1/8" off the seal and having the prop shaft 1/4" longer than before will give me about what i need... before i had 1/8" total

can i run the seal piece right against the log ? or leave a 1/16" and its dead center of the shaft now.. that would give 1/2" alone

it looks like i just gained a 1" for a 5/8" safety collar correct?

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

This is exactly what I would do. Plus tighten the safety collar right next to the coupler. I don't see any reason why they can't be touching or almost touching.

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perfect and by shortening the hose i have over 1" by doing all that

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Originally Posted by HotWater

Is there any meat to trim off the coupler?

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its a Casale coupler he says don't touch it lol find another way but don't go there lol thats from Andy

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

You know what I would do about the shaft log?

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you would mill a custom billet piece out of some exotic material with it being a 1' shorter and bad ass ! right ?
ill send you mine you can replace with a custom for charity lmao

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Is that why you're single....:lmao

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your right 1" from the knee lmao

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

That was going to be answer, yes.:wink:

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go right ahead ill send you this one , you can mill your name it too.

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

You know what work perfect for your deal Micheal? A fabricated log with a stainless plate base and a tube cut on a long angle and welded to the plate. That would be something you could make yourself and have it welded if you're not experienced with welding. It would allow you to use the same mounting holes and you could slide the whole seal and tube back for clearance. You'll have some extra room between the tube and base to move thing back.

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yes or cut a 1/2" off my log and be done lol

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Just throwing out some other ideas for you.

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good idea pretty easy die grinder drill press tig weld

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Originally Posted by ogshotgun

its a Casale coupler he says don't touch it lol find another way but don't go there lol thats from Andy

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You need to keep the coupler about a 1/16 or so off the v drive output housing, but the safety collar can be as close as you car to make it. It you don't want them to touch, fine. But I a couple thousands with a feeler gauge is all you need. Just don't let it touch the v drive housing or the shaft log seal. It will cook the seal in a heart beat.
Also. McMaster Carr sells SS two bolt safety collars that are only 1/2 wide if that helps.

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Originally Posted by gn7

You need to keep the coupler about a 1/16 or so off the v drive output housing, but the safety collar can be as close as you car to make it. It you don't want them to touch, fine. But I a couple thousands with a feeler gauge is all you need. Just don't let it touch the v drive housing or the shaft log seal. It will cook the seal in a heart beat.
Also. McMaster Carr sells SS two bolt safety collars that are only 1/2 wide if that helps.

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thanks sounds good ill keep you posted think i found enough room to get the CE .625" safety collar in there

This is how they machined my new Aquamet 22 shaftAttachment 36425Attachment 36426

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Looks nice. Make sure the key has corner radius' to match the fillets. Looks like that's maybe a .030? Let your phone focus before hitting the button next time.

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Attachment 36453like this

I have a few of the MCmaster Carr safety collars if you need them. in stainless and chrome too! Im not gonna use them.

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Originally Posted by ptc

I have a few of the MCmaster Carr safety collars if you need them. in stainless and chrome too! Im not gonna use them.

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i actually do need two for my rudder . i don't like whats there now

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Originally Posted by ogshotgun

Attachment 36453like this

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Did you get that shaft from Marine Machine? Did they supply you with that piece of key?

If the seat in shaft has a radius approaching the one on that key, those guys have their shit together.

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Originally Posted by ogshotgun

This is how they machined my new Aquamet 22 shaftAttachment 36425Attachment 36426

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Look's nice! How do they cut a constant depth keyway in a tapered part of the shaft? Do they use a keyway cutter in a vertical mill cutting from the side with the shaft mounted at the appropriate angle?

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Originally Posted by gn7

Did you get that shaft from Marine Machine? Did they supply you with that piece of key?

If the seat in shaft has a radius approaching the one on that key, those guys have their shit together.

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yes camee from machine machine the radius in the keyway is slightly less than the keyway, aim glad you like it all of your input made the decision thanks

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Keyway cutter, programmed tool path at the same angle of the taper.

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thanks for all the help making my decision between you and bob it made life simple i get stuck with too many choices , THANKS AGAIN

GN 369 lost an A 22 shaft and new prop in Sat. race at Parker. I was told it had 6 races on it. I wouldn't run an A 22 prop shaft if was free. K Monel from Italy will be my shaft of choice from now on.