Are you still going to run the serpentine blower pulleys or are you going to some 8mm's?
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Are you still going to run the serpentine blower pulleys or are you going to some 8mm's?
I think Greg left 'em on just to piss Ginger off. :wink_002:
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Anyone have a clue who's cam Greg was running? Jeremie said he thought it was a Chris Straub grind but I e-mailed Chris and he said that it wasn't his.
It's 00K2A 139456. I was thinking it might be a Crane Cam.
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Look at the end of the cam, if it's crane it should say crane. The 13 indicates that it's for BBC, 945 will be the type of cam/grind it is. The copper paint or die between the lobes also looks like a crane. Call crane they'll tell you exactly what it is. With a number like that it's not a custom grind it's a catalog piece.
We looked at it pretty good. I don't think it's the original cam just a new grid of the original cam.
edit: You can identify a genuine Crane cam core by the distinctive copper plating between the lobes.
So here's some food for thought.
I have decided to run a direct drive set-up but I am not sure which way I want to go. I can run what I have which is the TCI Front Pump Drive which is a (2) piece or I can run a (1) piece A 1 type deal.
I really don't have any negatives thoughts about running a (1) piece A 1 type Front Pump Drive since I will be running a Billet Steel Flexplate. The only down side I can see is the cost to buy one.
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What I don't like about the 2 piece TCI Front Pump Drive is that since the motor plate is 3/8" thick I would have to run an adjustable slip collar. There needs to be 1/8 to 3/16" travel from where the pump drive is bottomed out in the transmission to where the slip collar is bottomed out in the flange. I guess I just don't like the fact that the slip collar is spinning inside the trans case and I am just wondering how likely it would be for the collar to loosen up and create some damage?
TCI 162000 - TCI Circlematic Front Pump Drive Kits
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TCI 745050 - TCI Circlematic Front Pump Drive Kits
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I measured the flange internally and the spline gear in the flange doesn't start until about 5/16 into the flange (I believe the spiral lock rides in this area). But since I am using the 2 piece lock collar that rides on the outside of the flange then I think I would just subtract 5/16" from the motor plate size 3/8" which equals 1/16". So if I start at (b) which is the spiral lock slot for no motor plate and measure 1/16" towards the engine that would be the starting place for the lock collar. Then set 1/8" to 3/16" for travel.
I wouldn't be worried about the collar. The diameter of the collar isn't large enough to have any rotating mass that would cause vibrations or anything to loosen the bolts if torqued properly and locktite is used. There's no end thrust applied to move the collar forward so that's not an issue either. If your really worried about it coming apart, assemble it, tighten the collar in place and then remove the drive and tack the two pieces of the collar together. I'm not a fan of doing something like that but it would give you the peace of mind you looking for.
Do you really need the collar? You're going to shorten the splined end of the shaft, why shorten per the instructions? The PTO coupler is splined thru, so why not machine the that end so it has 1/8 - 3/16 off the end of the crank? If you chunk it up in a lathe so the face is square to the splines then there is no need for the collar. The collar is there so the shaft doesn't move too far forward and comes out of the trans. If you set the end-play to the crank, the collar is useless.
I spoke with a Crane Cams Tech and they said they made it but didn't finish the Cam. So it is a custom grind. Basically they sold the cam to another company and that company finished it so Crane doesn't have the specs to it. The Crane Tech said the number 139456 means BBC solid roller.
I think the TCI's idea with the collar is if some guy is doing this in his garage and the only thing he has is a chop saw to cut the shaft to length. The cut won't be square, but by putting that split collar on there it will provide a perpendicular shoulder for the end play. The PTO becomes part of the crank when it's bolted on. So what's the difference if the end play is set from the PTO face or inside the PTO on the crank. Hope I'm making sense here.
You should move this to the V-drive section. You'll have GN7, 2MM, Mitch and I'm sure plenty of others to get some sound advice from.
ask and you shall receive :D