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Ya, just throw in a new one, I suspect they are like 5 bucks at pep boys AND if the carb has the sintered brass/metal filter in the fuel inlet, change it too and have a spare... It's cheap insurance, you know how much the carb rebuild cost and how much of a PITA it was when the carb was messed up... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by riverrunner1984
Holes??? what holes???Quote:
Originally Posted by rioracr
he had swim step holes that needed to be filled.............another post by RR
Ahhhhhhh, yes... Screw holes, just get some matt, shred it, whip it up in some resin, Csink the holes real good and pack her full, put tape/paper under the holes to catch the resin when it oooozes down...Quote:
Originally Posted by rioracr
Mix the shredded glass into a paste with the resin... Wet the Csink'd holes with resin with a small throw away brush....Pack em full of thoroughly wetted fibers...
Grind it smooth and mix up some gel touch up from west marine or some other boat shop... Ezzzzzz deal... Seal it with the gel after the first part is ground smooth and cleaned with acetone, to make it water proof (the glass/resin can absorb/wick water into the glass fibers)...
Very cool. Only one way to scratch that itch. [emoji4]
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Good idea.....Quote:
Originally Posted by rioracr
Can you elaborate a little more on filling the holes??? Are we just basically filling the holes and putting the cloth flush with the gel coat?
Do you think it will big a huge eye soar. like a different color?
^^^ my post 13, ez dealio...Quote:
Originally Posted by riverrunner1984
how big are the holes???
Yah I saw your post after I replied lol....Ok, I think I am getting it...One question (I tried google but it didnt come up) what is Csink?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manymustangs
Hole are small. I'd say, maybe 3/4 to 1 inch long. I dont know diameter but it help swim step brackets in???
TO do a proper repair on fiberglass you have to increase the surface of the original fiberglass that you are bonding to/repairing... SO in the case of a simple screw hole, you 'counter sink' or chamfer with a very wide angle, ideally greater than 45 degrees... if it is a crack, you use a die grinder and "v" it out or if it is a hole like you are talking about the outer rim of your reapir will grow to prolly 1 1/2" wide to 2" long. This increases the surface that you are bonding the new glass to. Without doing this , the patch/repair will fail or be weak around the hole...Quote:
Originally Posted by riverrunner1984
You always wanna clean the repair area with acetone between the grinding/patch/grind/patch/grind/patch...
Poly resin sets up super fast depending on how much MEKP (hardener) you put into it... YOu may need to put some kind of rigid backing on the hole to pack your pieces of repair glass against, something that the glass wont stick too hopefully like some wood blocks wedged in place that are covered with plastic or plastic wrap or something you can peel off after the patch sets up...
Rivergames or FC pilot or Wannabe are glass guys, maybe they will CHINE in here :D and give their 2 cents... General purpose Poly REsin typically has wax/styrene in it and it rises to the surface as it cures to keep it from being tacky, so you have to clean all that off with the acetone... I would use the fiberglass MAT and not fabric for something like this... its just a matted layer of fiberglass strands, not woven like fabric/cloth...
You dont need much supplies to get it water tight and ready for final gel coat touch up, but cover the area below your repair iwth tape/masking paper/newsprint or the resin will run/oooze down all over your repair...
There isn't much strength in the poly resin by itself, you need lots O glass strands to make a strong repair... you can hand lay a small object up with a few layers and it will be tough/strong OR you can vaccum lay up 2-3 x the layers of glass, working out the resin and make 2-3 layers of glass as THIN as the hand layed object and it will be exponetially stronger, and the same thickness due to the extra layers of structure (glass)... Just as an example of where the strength comes from, its really not the resin but the saturated glass strands that create the strength...
Attachment 54939
This is where the fuel line enters the carb...don't see a filter???Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manymustangs
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...0eaa7ba929.jpg
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put a rag under the AN fitting then loosen it, then get a wrench and loosen the fitting and remove it leaving it attached to the AN fitting, the filter should be housed
in the fitting you just removed from the carb, it will look like a pouress stone, change that and put it back together and check for leaks, don't want to ruin your day
with having to use your extinguser.............have fun