Almost all off the shelf oils changed when they had to meet the GF5 standards set down by the car manufactures. The days of the oil companies blending what they think is best are gone. The EPA and the manufactures are calling the shots for the most part. Some M1 oils changed more than others. I have no need for 10/30 or lighter oil so it doesn't bother me.
Another thing that really SUCKS is that a few years ago Mobil sued Castrol for using the term "synthetic" for oil that was really just highly refined/hydro cracked petroleum. And they lost the case. The SAE and the API both refused to define exactly what was "synthetic". The term no means any oil that is not processed thru normal distillation.
In industry jargon, that moved synthetics from Group 4 and 5, to include group 3. That means oils that contain group 2 and 3 are now "blends" and anything made up of 3, 4 and 5 is 100% synthetic. Mobil had no choice but to start using some group 3 base stock or lose a huge market share due to price. They still use more 4 and 5 than any other "synthetic" on the shelf, but it did change the formula for previous M1 oils.
Still the best synthetic on the shelf at the big box stores, but not quite up with the pricier Amsoils, which by the way, now also have some lower cost so called synthetic under the OE and XL labels. Not bad oil, just not what Amsoil is known for, and not 100% group 4 and 5 base stock.
FYI, the Mobil 1 10/40 High Milage and the Mobil 1 0/40 are both slightly better oils than the 10/30.
The 15/50 is pretty close to what it has always been. Its the 10/30 and lighter stuff that took the biggest hit in the formula.
But then, everybody's API certified GF4 and 5 oils did. If they tell you different, they're lying, or don't know any better.
The best oil for your boat is no longer a car oil. Mobil 1 10/40, 0/40, and 15/50 are damn good and probably the best thing you will find in a big box retailer for 99% of the boats out there. But the best is when you get away from the controls of the EPA and car manufactures. That means oil that is not API and ILSAC certified.
I.E. No API donut seal logo on the bottle.
As for your car, I still continue to use M1 in everything. What my car NEEDS and what my boat WANTS is 2 different things.
I walked into a Auto Zone a coupe months ago and saw this. Needless to say I cleaned out 5 Auto Zones in my area and spent a few hundred doing it, but I am good for a little while.
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