Prop Shaft

what it seems like is most people look at the broken part thats left and assume it failed, did something else fail first and cause that failure ? a old man told me once to look at the root cause of the failure, not the ending result.

So what about the key way cut on the coupler end??

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Originally Posted by ogshotgun

it looks like i need a under water metal detector and i can go into the missing prop business lol> with three to five every race and some very high dollar props being tossed it might make for a lucrative weekend of diving

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There you go flipping your lips again. They held a race at Parker, I think I saw ONE shaft broke. I seen a whole season and no body broke one, and you go and make a mindless statement like this. You make it very easy to classify you as FULL OF SHIT!

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Originally Posted by Brian

So what about the key way cut on the coupler end??

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Its not as susceptible because the shaft is clamped and the slot SHOULD be some distance from the back of the coupler. If you can keep the torsional twist away from the slot, outside the coupler, its not as much of problem.
In reality, the ouput shaft of the v drive is more prone to shearing off. Its the reason the smarter guys run a output 1/8 larger than the prop shaft.

Although it is possible that the SS80 shaft broke a prop ear first, and more than believable if you understand WHY, the shaft is also just looking for a reason to fail. A prop ear is more enough a reason.

If the shaft and the prop in the SS80 could finish a 20 lap main under my boat, I would be changing them both before I ran it again.

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

The best machinist now days started on conventional machines. Then learned to program by hand (actually need to know trig for this) and run tape. Then learned CAD/CAM. Then learned 5-axis. All the while collecting data in they're brains about materials, tooling, processing, etc. These guys are getting close to retirement now. Welcome the new age machinist right out of trade school that can't even describe how it feels to run a hacksaw through a beer can but he can CAD draw the shit out of an impeller.

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Like I said in a previous post, the best of the best CNC machines is useless in the wrong hands. Even though the program could be perfect, the wrong tool/bad tool, on the wrong angle can be just as harming as the wrong speed/feed. A Sunnen Cylinder King in the wrong hands can jack up a cylinder worse than a 1950s Kwikway with somebody that knows what he is doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRuSYQ5Npek

Who sells the rubbery plastic type strut bushings?

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Originally Posted by HotWater

Who sells the rubbery plastic type strut bushings?

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Lets fix this Sean. There is RUBBER in a metal jacket, and then there is the "plastic" stuff like Delron and Turcite. I am hoping you mean the later.

I believe Wilkes can make you a Turcite, and Steveo MIGHT make them from Delron. I know there are others. I'll check around.

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Do you run that type on your K boat? I always assumed the race guys ran the fiber laminate type.

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Yeah rubber type is in there now and it's time to replace it.

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Originally Posted by gn7

Lets fix this Sean. There is RUBBER in a metal jacket, and then there is the "plastic" stuff like Delron and Turcite. I am hoping you mean the later.

I believe Wilkes can make you a Turcite, and Steveo MIGHT make them from Delron. I know there are others. I'll check around.

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It's definately rubber with a thin brass or bronze sleeve around it.

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Originally Posted by WESTERNAERO

Isn't your shaft speed too much for the rubber bushing?

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I don't have a tack but with 54's in the box I know the shaft speed has got to be pretty dog gone high. I'm not sure what rpm those rubber bushing's are good for.